June 30, 2009
A Family Feast for the Fourth
June 29, 2009
Yelapa Full of Color + 30 Days in 1 Spot
The colors of Yelapa (and Mexico as a whole) always blow my mind. Every ramshackle hole-in-the-wall is brightened up by techno colors, all bright and beautiful even on a rainy day. A rainy week. The whole rainy season. Which it was definitely doing when I was there a week ago. The buggies were out in full force too (ever heard of flying termites), but we just laughed about the mud, the bugs, the rain, the humidity, the insanity of it all.
Yelapa is still a magical little village even after 5 years. Pretty much identical to what it always was. I'm thinking its cause there are no cars. You have to take the water ferry (45 minutes from PV) to get there, but once you're there...super chill. Def. go in the non-rainy season, though. If you've been a Toothie for long, you might remember that my very 1st post ever was about Yelapa. Way back in the day...seems like a trillion years ago I was like, "Hmmm....maybe I will start a little travel/food/adventure blog."
We tramped through the village trying not to squash the thousands of baby crabs that had just been hatched and were everywhere, drank primo ojo rojos all day, ate the BEST food (still) at Hotel Lagunita, swam in the rainwater pool (in the rain, of course), saw dolphins flippin' all around the cove, and watched chubby fireflies all night long.
Not sure when I will be back there, I'm in desperate need of some new faraway trips..but that said, I'm challenging myself to stay in one place for 30 days. I don't know if I can do it. I'm already panicking about it. But, if I can pull it off, then maybe I can get some life stuff done, finally. Slow'er down....
Today is Day 1. Agggghhhhhhhh!
June 28, 2009
Salt and Pepper Squid, Bún(Herb Noodle Salad) and Chè Chuôi (Banana Tapioca in Coconut Milk)
On the whole I tend to cook in waves. Reading a book on India? Expect quite a few spicy dishes to crop up in the rotation. Watching a lot of Pedro Almodóvar films? Pimentón and chorizo are everywhere. Friday I had to go to Kam Man in Quincy to stock us up at school for the upcoming Thai, Vietnamese, Indian and soon Korean classes.
Allowing me loose in there with no time constraints and a long list is like heaven, it also means we will be eating from several cuisines, but all firmly in the far East for the foreseeable future.
I bought a half duck and Friday night I made lettuce rolls dipped in Nước chấm with the chopped up duck and to go with I was craving squid/calamari. For some reason salt and pepper squid popped into my head and wouldn't leave. I've never made salt and pepper squid before but I guessed it would be pretty quick and pretty easy. I hunted around the web and decided on cornstarch as my coating. My tempura batter is heavy on the cornstarch and I like the light 'batter' it makes on the outside. Cornstarch makes a very light, very crisp coating and unlike many traditional batters, it won't separate from what you have coated. The lettuce rolls were good, but the squid, THE SQUID were heavenly.
In fact, I had a few left in the ziploc that I didn't fry Friday night and much to my husband's horror, I fried them up quick for breakfast before I left. He squinted his very British nose at me while he spooned in his milk and cereal and I vainly tried to explain that people in China probably ate this for breakfast and no one blinked an eye. His retort was that we were not in China. My retort back was then why aren't you eating fried beans, fried bread, fried tomatoes, fried mushroom and blood sausage then? He shut up and continued spooning in his Harvest flakes.
Saturday I drove up to Framingham to look at FLOR tiles at Circle furniture for our remodel and I brought along The Little Saigon Cookbook by Ann Le for inspiration before I hit the local Whole Foods. Before I left home I called to check in with Mom and SD. Coincidently that very morning she, many states away in VA, had driven to her local Asian market to stock up and as I waxed about S&P squid she said they had ordered it last night for dinner. Coincidence? I think not. Anyway, I promised her I would put the recipe here in case she wanted to make it at home. Her local had put it on a 'salad' of finely minced sautéed vegetables including chilies and I am guessing shallots, but if anyone knows what it is 'traditionally' served on, let me know so I can try to make that as well.
Sitting in the parking lot of Whole Foods sipping my iced coffee I decided I was going to have the squid again. I know! Again! I never, NEVER eat the same thing three meals in a row. I assure you right now that this is going to be my summer addiction. I flicked through the book at decided that I would make a bún or herb salad to go with it. My garden has a great patch of Vietnamese Coriander this year and that is just something I can't find in the stores. Even Russo's my faithful Asian produce supplier never seems to carry it so I take matters in my own hands and grow it. I find my plants at Russell's in Wayland. That is some Vietnamese Coriander up in the top right hand corner of the bowl with the long pointed leaves. It tastes like a cross of cilantro and Thai Basil. I adore it. Cilantro haters will despise it with equal measure. The salad was loads of mint, Vietnamese Coriander, cilantro, mung bean sprouts, a few sliced shallots and it was all tossed with some cellophane noodles, topped in fried garlic slices and at the last minute doused in Nước chấm. Bright, fresh, and the perfect foil to the fried squid.
For dessert I decided to try my hand at the Chè Chuôi. If you are a tapioca fan like I am this was heaven. Tapioca cooked in water until translucent and then you add in coconut milk, sweetened condensed milk, sugar, salt and banana, simmer for a bit and then let it sit. You can top it in shaved coconut, but I had it as is at room temperature and it was heaven.
So for the sake of Mom who requested it, here is all you need to do for heavenly salt and pepper squid.
No measurements here since it will all depend on the amount of squid you have, but I had between 1/2 - 3/4 pound of squid bodies. I cut the cleaned tubes open and then scored them across with my knife and cut each body into 4 pieces. My squid were about 3 - 4 inches long.
In my suribachi (or mortar and pestle or coffee grinder) went about 2 TBS of black peppercorns and about the same of Maldon sea salt.
After I ground it a bit it looked like this. Some larger and smaller chunks of everything.
Into a ziploc went about 1/3 - 1/2 cup of cornstarch and 3/4 of the salt and pepper. I save some for sprinkling on after frying. In go the squid. Toss, shake, shimmy, toss. Heat oil in a wok, not very deep, just enough to cover squid. Set up a paper towel to drain. Add in a few pieces at a time and fry quickly, I repeat QUICKLY, 2 minutes...maybe. pull and drain, sprinkle with a bit more s&p.
I served mine with Kewpie, cause I like it that way. But sometimes I would dip it in the Nước chấm
and then the kewpie. Oh....my. Tonight I am feeling a bit French. It will be an omelette with a nice side salad and a glass of wine. Ohh la la.
June 27, 2009
Shave Ice = Instant Gratification
I love it when a plan comes together. All the forces of the blogofacebookosphere worked in unison to bring Alon, myself, and Milk shave ice together this afternoon. After a summery salad lunch (I am convinced that Milk has the best selection of the most un-boring salads in town. Their Farmer's Market salad has unusual veg like sliced radishes and snappy green beans, and today's Manchego salad with dates, nectarines and candied walnuts did not disappoint), we were ready for dessert.
We walked over to a table with a gigantic block of ice, bottles of flavoring (dulce de leche, green tea, mojito, and good old sweetened condensed milk are just a few), and jugs of toppings: mango and strawberry, coconut -- chunky with real bits of the fruit, and chile tamarind. Behind the table, the raspado man managed to stay very friendly despite expending major energy to scrape at the giant block of ice, then artfully layer it with the add-ons: I got mango and coconut with a bit of sweetened condensed milk, Alon got mango with chile tamarind syrup, but the winners were Dave and Krystal: both got strawberry with dulce de leche -- a stellar combination, and the prize of the day.
Friends, summer has officially begun.
--
Milk is at 7290 Beverly Blvd, at Poinsettia.
Summer = Shave Ice

My sister declared on Facebook last night that this is officially the summer of ice cream and shave ice (I find the now-ubiquitous practice of referring to facebook and twitter and other web stuff a little weird, but at least I'm not quoting entire twitter conversations). Fine by me. Then Alon asked her if there is good shave ice in LA. Such a good question, I thought I'd answer it here.
Shave It: This is the answer that Torreh would give. It's a bright, heavily surfery-themed spot, with super-fluffy ice and neon 'flavas' brought in from Hawaii. Next time I'm there, I'm gonna try the Yard Sale: Pineapple, Lemon, and Guava shave ice with macadamia nut ice cream. And with every shave ice sold, a portion goes to Foster A Miracle, a foundation that inspires the future of foster children. You know I like that. There are three Shave-It locations, in Thousand Oaks, Norwalk, and Valencia. Too far for you? Start a franchise.
Half and Half Tea House: I fell in love with this place during 11 in 11 last year. A cozy Alhambra boba spot elevated with thoughtful add-ons (like caramel drizzled down the inside of a glass of boba), funky glassware and a friendly, youthful vibe. The Taiwanese-style shave ice, flavored with brown sugar and served in a giant mound, comes with your choice of toppings, including sweetened condensed milk, honey boba, egg custard, coffee jello, pineapple, red bean, mochi, or ice cream. While you're there, better get a caramel brick toast!
Sidewalk Shaved Ice at Milk: Yesterday's Tasting Table featured a summer special at Milk on Beverly: Every Saturday and Sunday through August, a guy (or girl, whatev) will be outside the shop, shaving ice to order from a giant block, raspado style, and topping it with syrups made from fresh fruit and natural ingredients. Strawberry and mojito sound nice, but I've got to try it with mango and chile-tamarind syrup. Totally going there today. Alonners, wanna come?
[thanks to RJ Malfalfa (who totally has the best name ever) for the photo!]
June 25, 2009
The Best Food in Puerto Vallarta
One of the best meals across the board that I've ever had was brilliantly enjoyed at a tiny tapas joint up high on a hill in Puerto Vallarta. It was made all the better cause my funny pals, Lis and J9, were with me, slippin' down sangria and micheladas for a few hours. I felt like an adult while drinking chilled sangria. Been a long time since I've felt all grown up. Not cause we were dressed up, or cause the prices were high ($60 all in, tip included for all 3 of us), but just cause it was a perfect room, full of perfect food. Made me happy beyond belief.
J9 had happened across Esquina de los Caprichos during a long walk while we were in Puerto Vallarta (look for the whale painted across the front of the building). She was off shooting loads of photos and exploring whilst I was paying someone to literally brush my hair and Lis was swindling dinero for looking at a timeshare (that $100 bones paid for dinner). We'd just been down in Yelapa for a few days (during rainy season) and the naps that I left that village with were legendary. I couldn't stomach the idea of showering or washing my hair (sick, I know), so I took the the pool for a bath and a neighborhood hairdresser to tug a brush through my hair (even she was stunned). A few days worth of massages were my moisturizer. :)
We made our way back to the restaurant for dinner and between the shrimp fideo, the pitcher of tangy sangria, the loads of simple/delicious small plates, the hysterical laughing at who could make the ugliest/saddest/happiest face contest, and the double chocolate cake for dessert, well...it was life in a perfect moment. It's the exact kind of place in the exact kind of 'hood that I would want to own. LOVED it.
Juiced Up: Mexican-style Quenchers Beat the Heat
Recipe: Happy Sandwich Salad for Ganesh
Recipe: Happy Sandwich Salad for Ganesh
3 ribs celery, sliced horizontally in three pieces and cut on the diagonal into quarter-inch pieces
3/4 cup mayonnaise or mayonnaise style product*
2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
1 tsp. tumeric
2 tsp. curry powder
1 tsp. dry mustard
A large pinch of cayenne
2 tbsp. Mayor Grey chutney, large piece chopped
1 14-oz package of Chinese-style tofu
4-5 large picked okras, chopped into small to medium rounds.
*I've updated the recipe with a little more mayo, realizing I use a heaping 1/2 cup (more like 3/4 cup) rather than a perfect 1/2 cup. But, to your taste of course!
June 23, 2009
Recipe: John’s Scones
John made these delicious scones when we were visiting in the LGB and they are simple and perfect for breakfast--or a mid-morning snack. He made his with the elusive cinnamon chip, but I used walnuts and dried cranberries to equal success. I've altered the recipe to say 'one cup of your favorite mix-in,' which could be dried blueberries, chopped fresh strawberries, pecans, dried apricots, white chocolate....or whatever you can think up. What makes this recipe so simple is that you just drop them right on the cookie sheet and bake--with a little pat on top or not, it's up to you.Recipe: John's Delicious Scones
2 cups all-purpose flour (I used half white whole wheat, for a healthy twist.)
1 cup of your favorite mix-in
1/3 c. sugar
1 1/2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1/4 tsp. salt
5 tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into sm. pieces
3/4 cup buttermilk
*Alternatively, you can combine all of these ingredients in the bowl of your food processor, then transfer to a big yellow bowl and proceed.
The Asia Kitchen, Sector 63, NOIDA
We visited the Asia Kitchen a few days back for lunch. I must say they’re trying and will get there eventually, but not just yet.
The decor is minimalistic and nice, but doesn’t quite suit the name. ‘Asia Kitchen’ tends to suggest a place that exudes warmth or perhaps sophistication. The current decor seems to have left things half way, kind of half done. They also really need a decent speaker system.
We received a warm welcome and were quickly shown to our tables, where our orders were taken in a jiffy. I was pleasantly surprised to see the restaurant nearly full up for lunch on a Friday. Given their fairly remote location, that is quite a feat. Full marks so far. The service was polite and pleasant and the serving staff were attentive, as long as they were at our table. Out of sight, out of mind seems to be the service theme.
We ordered Mushroom Wontons and Vegetable spring rolls for starters, Dal Tadka, Shahi Paneer, Murg Mussallam and vegetable Jal Frezi with Naans for the main courses and assorted ice creams for dessert. I also ordered one portion each of House Noodles and Double Fried Pork for myself.
The food took a while coming, which was alright considering the crowd dining and since we were 18 people, the slight delay was quite acceptable. When the food arrived, nearly all the bowls were very sloppily filled. Smudges of curry, dal or vegetables adorned the outside of practically every serving dish. Some were served with the servers fingers inside the bowl. Taking particular note of the Murg Mussallam, which was a chicken curry and nowhere near the painstakingly prepared original, the food was quite ordinary and doesn’t merit a detailed review.
The House Noodles were under flavoured, slightly burnt from sticking to the wok and quite a mess really. The Double Fried Pork tasted very good and would have been the star of the meal if it hadn’t been for the inferior cuts of meat used where most of each piece was fat.
All in all, the dining experience was average. Should you visit? No, unless you’re in the vicinity and famished.
- Sid
PS: The picture is a stock photo and was *not* taken at the Asia Kitchen.
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June 22, 2009
Mexico is in my Blood…
I love Mexico. Folks just cruising around with baggies full of lobster. Rainstorms spring up outta nowhere that make ya love Mother Nature. Weddings poppin' up around every corner. Bright colors. Lovely beaches. Loads of smiles. Amazing food (including the best tapas I've had outside of Spain).
Was just down in Puerto Vallara and Yelapa and forget what everyone is telling you about swine flu. I came back fine and dandy as can be. In fact, now is the time to go - no crowds, off-season prices, cheap flights, incredible sunsets. Be brave.
I fell in love with PV this time around. Old town and the area behind the church is just awesome. I think they call it Gringo Gulch. I can see why. I'd buy a place there (with a sweeping terrace facing the ocean) no problem.
It's good to be home though. I plan on doing nothing but nesting all summer long. Obsessing about my plants (one was attacked by small bugs while I was gone and I'm now on a recon mission to kill all varmins within a 1/2 mile radius), fixing up my boat, reading all sorts of adventure books, cooking at home, fleshing out some 4th World Love missions, maybe a trip or so to Baja and/or San Miguel de Allende to check on my trailer-- but beyond that, nada. Holla.
June 21, 2009
Summer?? Tomatillo Salsa, Sundrops, Coorgi Pork Curry and Gujerati Sem
Solstice? Summer? What is that? We have barely seen peaks of the sun in the last 21 days, never mind on the day with the most daylight. Those sundrops are the brightest thing I've seen in days. They practically scream out in the garden against all the gray skies and greenery. A friend is in Iceland as we speak, I hope her solstice is going better than ours, I sent her off with a warning to watch Bourdain's episode and not to eat the fermented shark. It's so cold around here and damp that I was even tempted to light a fire today, but mine would have been to keep warm, not to keep the witches away or the faeries and spirits.
Instead of lamenting the distinctly English summer we are having here in New England I decided to dream of warmer and sunnier places and cook up some hot Indian for dinner tonight.
First I put a boatload of tomatillo, plum tomato, serrano chile, poblano and garlic under the broiler until they were nicely blistered.
I turned them into a salsa that will get a diced, rinsed white onion and become Mexican rice and something else Monday night, Sunday is all about prep for the week. I roasted husbands lemon chicken for his sandwiches as well.
Next I popped the spices in my pan to toast them for the curry.
There aren't too many pork recipes in Indian cuisine, as you would imagine, but Goa and Coorg had some leftover Portuguese influence and some Christians kicking around so the occasional recipe crops up. I could have made a Vindaloo, but husband really hates vinegar, which I could drink by the quart, so I made this one instead with tamarind and a bit of coconut milk, garlic, onion, ginger paste and those nice spices all ground up. I'll make his favourite green beans (Gujerati sem) with loads of mustard seeds, garlic and chile and I have a bunch of diced potatoes kicking around upstairs so I'm trying to find a dry aloo recipe to put them to use, maybe sookhe aloo. I'm hoping that we can at least generate a sweat on this 60oddF day in "summer".
Remind me of this day in august when I'm bitching about the unbearable heat would you?
Strawberry on strawberry action
I’ve only recently come to love strawberries.
Yeah- I know how odd that is… I had some silly convictions I carried with me through childhood as a picky eater. Strawberries use to be in that category of untouchable foods -like tomatoes. But now that I’m enjoying foods in season, strawberries have revealed themselves to be the nirvana that I had always heard about.
This summer has given me practice in my favorite way to prepare my sliced strawberries. This makes strawberries taste restaurant Grandma quality good, and is better than sprinkling strawberries with sugar. Your strawberry shortcake will thank you!
For a pint of juicy strawberries with amplified flavor:
- - core, then slice 1 pint of strawberries and place into a jar or bowl.
- - sprinkle with a pinch of salt
- - in a small bowl make up a strawberry syrup by mixing 1 Tbs of strawberry jam with 1-2 Tbs of hot water. Stir till the jam is broken up and is now syrup consistency. Putting the bowl in the microwave for 10-15 seconds on High will help loosen up the jam.
- - pour this strawberry jam syrup over the sliced strawberries and allow to sit at room temperature 30 minutes before use.
Not only are these extra juiced up berries good on ice cream and cake, but they’re wonderful spooned over yogurt.
