The Delicious Cooking

August 18, 2009

I Heart The Gorbals

Filed under: dining out, downtown, jewish, los angeles — The Delicious Cooking @ 12:55 am
There's a part in Jesus is Magic where Sarah Silverman, trying to counter the stereotype that Jewish women aren't sexy, sultrily describes slipping into a slinky negligee, then breaks into a ridiculous, flailing "hoydel-doydel" song and dance.

Can you think of a more hoydel-doydel name for a restaurant than The Gorbals? The whatnow?

The Gorbals is the new restaurant of Ilan Hall, former Top Chef winner and Scottish-Israeli New Yorker. When I first heard the name, I had to snicker at his folly, but when I read about the restaurant's namesake -- the neighborhood in Scotland where Ilan's dad grew up among a diversity of poor, outcast immigrant groups -- its unsexiness became lovable. Then when I heard what the restaurant would be serving: "old Jewish food date-raped by bacon," I was totally smitten. Admittedly, my fascination is more about cleverness than deliciousness; after all, Ashkenazi food doesn't exactly strike me as haute cuisine, but then again, Ilan won Top Chef -- obviously he knows some things about food.

This place is not open yet (though according to Eater LA, it should be opening within the week), but apparently there was a preview a few nights ago. Manischewitz flowed and irreverent bacon-wrapped matzoh balls rolled. And, thank goodness, Ilan's beautiful bubbe was in the house.

[photo nymag.com]
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The Gorbals is at 501 South Spring St. downtown. Opening soon.

July 23, 2009

panama! and beer-float-off!

Filed under: dining out, los angeles — The Delicious Cooking @ 12:01 am

friends, i'm off to panama tonight (go on, sing the van halen song), but if i were to be in town on sunday, july 26 at 3:30 pm, i'd be at the LA BEER FLOAT SHOWDOWN. golden state/scoops crazy delicious concoctions versus bottlerock/milk's own innovative contenders. you'll drink a lot, you'll eat a lot of ice cream, and proceeds go to 826LA, which is a lovely organization.

get all the details here, including how to get discount tickets.

hasta next week!

[thanks to Dan4th for the photo]

July 17, 2009

Happy 75th Farmer’s Market!

Filed under: fairfax, farmers market, los angeles — The Delicious Cooking @ 9:14 am

This week marks the seventy-fifth anniversary of Farmers Market, my home away from home on Third and Fairfax. While I'm sad to have missed the Taste of Farmers Market event Tuesday night (which, oddly, no other blogger seems to have attended either), I did drop in to catch a few minutes of their early morning birthday party yesterday. A quaint event, with Farmers Market 'royalty' like the adorable Phyllis Magee sharing memories on a stage built in the parking lot, a bunch of local kids doing a card stunt, a drill team, and a marching band.

Showing trademark hospitality, there were self-serve coffee jugs and cupcakes for attendees -- was I in cosmopolitan Los Angeles or in Mellencamp-small-town America? Hard to say, which is precisely why we love the Farmers Market (and the LA Times agrees, beautifully).

There are lots of festivities all week, check it out here! And if you care about such things, there is currently a special edition of the Larchmont Chronicle available at the Farmers Market right now, filled with stories, interviews, and factoids from the all the market's vendors (not to mention some answers to the mystery of the adobe). Lots of sweet history.

June 27, 2009

Shave Ice = Instant Gratification

Filed under: dining out, los angeles — The Delicious Cooking @ 5:29 pm

I love it when a plan comes together. All the forces of the blogofacebookosphere worked in unison to bring Alon, myself, and Milk shave ice together this afternoon. After a summery salad lunch (I am convinced that Milk has the best selection of the most un-boring salads in town. Their Farmer's Market salad has unusual veg like sliced radishes and snappy green beans, and today's Manchego salad with dates, nectarines and candied walnuts did not disappoint), we were ready for dessert.

We walked over to a table with a gigantic block of ice, bottles of flavoring (dulce de leche, green tea, mojito, and good old sweetened condensed milk are just a few), and jugs of toppings: mango and strawberry, coconut -- chunky with real bits of the fruit, and chile tamarind. Behind the table, the raspado man managed to stay very friendly despite expending major energy to scrape at the giant block of ice, then artfully layer it with the add-ons: I got mango and coconut with a bit of sweetened condensed milk, Alon got mango with chile tamarind syrup, but the winners were Dave and Krystal: both got strawberry with dulce de leche -- a stellar combination, and the prize of the day.

Friends, summer has officially begun.

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Milk is at 7290 Beverly Blvd, at Poinsettia.

June 15, 2009

Bake Sale Aftermath

Filed under: bake sale, los angeles — The Delicious Cooking @ 10:04 am

Full report coming soon, but let's just say this was the perfect bake sale. So much delicious food was donated, all of it was sold (well before 6pm -- sorry to those who showed up late, but there were in fact no cookies left behind at No Cookie Left Behind!), Weather was perfect, it all went off without a hitch, and we surpassed our goal by nearly one thousand dollars! A million thank-yous to the girls that made it happen: Heather, Jodi, Logan, Jessica, Rachel, Annie, and sweet Jeana for helping out all day. Not to mention Chelsea who gave so much of her time (and home) with onesie craft days and jam nights. And a million more to all our wonderful bakers, to Brian for saving the day, to all the bloggers and writers who publicized this thing better than it's ever gotten in the past, to everyone who came out and ate sweets for this wonderful cause, and to dear Tai, who wows us with his generosity and to-the-core goodness year after year. Well done, friends!

(oh, and yeah Lakers!)

April 23, 2009

Food Blog Mashup: The All Kinds of Yum Food Marathon

Filed under: dining out, fairfax, los angeles, meta — The Delicious Cooking @ 11:27 pm
A food blog mashup: two food bloggers come together to eat, meet, and take awkward photos in restaurants. One provides the premise -- that's Food Marathon, with his flights through several eateries in rapidfire succession; the other provides the location -- Fairfax Avenue, where I could offer Food Marathon a taste of my neighborhood, all within a block's walk.

Food Marathon likes to keep some anonymity on the web, so we'll refer to him as FM from here on in. Since FM already had covered West Third Street with another favorite local blogger of mine, I suggested Fairfax. And since the offerings on Fairfax lend themselves to late night noshing, we decided to make it a night owl's food marathon. In a gametime decision, we nixed Chameau, since, despite its delicious Moroccan fare, there actually is a limit to how much I can eat in one night. This left us with three stops: Canter's, Animal, and Golden State.

We met at Canter's Delicatessen, immediately got past the potential weirdness of a blind meeting over nothing but food (guess it's not that weird to us anyway), and got down to business. We ordered four items, all noteworthy for the restaurant: corned beef on rye, known as some of the best in town, the humble waffle, which LA Magazine named the best in the city in 2005, the meticulously composed fruit cup, and an egg cream -- a throwback to FM's childhood Canter's visits.

As we ate, we talked -- not just about food, though it was a popular topic. FM's made it a point to get to know as many local food bloggers as he can, and it was eye opening to me to learn what a network our city has developed over the many years. He also told me about his idea for a different kind of food mashup -- taking items from different restaurants, and combining them to make new dishes -- all while sandwiching some corned beef between a couple waffle wedges, as if to demonstrate his point.

All well and good, but it was time for the next stop. FM handed off our leftovers to a homeless guy outside Canter's, and we stepped over to the bar at Animal. It was here that our mashup would soon take on new meaning, but we didn't know that yet. What we did know was twofold: Joe's doughnuts and the bacon chocolate bar. The latter has been the talk of Animal since its opening -- the old schtick of the two dudes that are such meatheads they even put pork in their dessert. And it was all you'd expect: rich and chocolatey, with that winning salty-sweet-smokey combo. But the other dessert, Joe's doughnuts, completely stole the show. I'd had them once before, and was excited to share them with FM. And to eat them again myself -- these doughnuts are incredibly delicious. They come freshly made and warm, three fluffy orbs, in a pool of dark caramel sauce.

It was as we were leaving the restaurant that one table caught our eye for two reasons: I saw a guy I met at 11 in 11 (talk about food marathon), FM saw an old high school friend. Both were the same guy. This one table brought the mashup full circle, as social circles merged unexpectedly. FM caught up with a couple more schoolmates as I chatted with another 11 in 11 compatriot; they all mentioned their plan to go to Golden State after their dinner, and then Jon Shook, whom I'd first met through Golden State's Jason Bernstein at Animal's soft opening, came out and told us how well the restaurant was doing in the late night hours. Exactly why we were there!

We let our friends carry on with their dinner though, as we still had to get to Golden State ourselves. I walked in immediately elated: Golden State is home turf for me, and in addition to owners Jim and Jason, two of my best friends, Rachel and Nick -- Jim's brother, in town from New York to check out the new place -- were also hanging out. Though I was hoping that FM might see the place for more than his first impression of "Scoops comes west", we really couldn't eat anything substantial at this point. So, he got Scoops. And I got wine. And we chatted with my friends. Jason and FM talked shop, Jim told us the history of the Canter's fruit cup (apparently an old schoolmate of his has made a documentary on the topic), ice cream flowed, and -- I hope -- good times were had.

But eventually, every great mashup must end. FM said his goodbyes, and I hung back at Golden State a little longer. At some point the rowdy crew from Animal made their way in and a dance party ensued, with my friends and FM's friends rocking out together in the middle of the now-closed restaurant. Welcome to my neighborhood, Food Marathon. This is how we do things here.

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Here's Food Marathon's take on the night.

Canter's Delicatessen is at 419 N. Fairfax.
Animal is at 435 N. Fairfax.
Golden State is at 426 N. Fairfax.
All of these spots are between Beverly and Melrose.

April 22, 2009

Neighborhood Nibbles

Filed under: books, fairfax, farmers market, los angeles, west third street — The Delicious Cooking @ 3:24 pm

Mid-city West is getting fun (as much as I still wretch a little when I say Mid-city West)! To wit:

L.A.'s Original Farmers Market Cookbook: Meet Me at 3rd and Fairfax. Someone (namely Joann Cianculli) did the footwork and collected recipes from nearly every stall at the iconic Third and Fairfax Farmers Market, in addition to fun anecdotes about the 75-year-old market. I live a half-block away from the Farmer's Market, and it has been my own backyard/dining room for the last seven years. So, I love this. According to Eating LA, I will finally learn the secret behind the awesome mee goreng at Singapore's Banana Leaf, and get Nancy Silverton's hailed spec for ground beef from Huntington's Meats for perfect hamburgers, plus recipes from Lotería, The Gumbo Pot, Magee's, and more. And according to Tasting Table, there was a book signing at Anthropologie Thursday night. Hopefully they still have some signed copies on hand this weekend!

West Third Street Spring Stroll
. These little Third Street events are always nice, but now that the weather's getting warmer, it's the perfect time for one. Hopefully they'll offer some good valet parking events like they did for the last one, but even if not, discounts, specials, and refreshments mean people will be out walking around. Saturday and Sunday, May 2-3.

[photo: westthirdstreet.com]

April 21, 2009

Vinoteca Farfalla is a Nice Place

Filed under: dining out, italian, los angeles, los feliz — The Delicious Cooking @ 12:21 am

I forget about Los Feliz, but turns out it's still there. Did a little Hillhurst pub crawl a while back, which started at Vinoteca Farfalla. This tiny box of a wine bar was super crowded, but if you can get yourself a table, you can be cozy within the bustle. It's a nice vibe. And they have the kind of staff that will engage you in a conversation about wine, if you're into that kind of thing (and not wine-timid like me), and will also tell you if your cheese selection is boring (which is to say, they are not cheese-timid. Nor am I). They also have a full menu with a subtle Brazilian bent amidst predominantly Italian offerings.

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Vinoteca Farfalla is at 1968 Hillhurst Av., between Los Feliz Boulevard and Franklin Avenue

April 12, 2009

Don’t Tell Anyone: The Varnish

Filed under: dining out, downtown, los angeles — The Delicious Cooking @ 10:30 pm

Can you keep a secret? It's a really good one. I've discovered a portal into another time and place, but I kind of want to keep it to myself. It's actually a tiny door in the back of Cole's downtown. You step inside, and are magically transported.

Cedd Moses, the guy behind the 213 group of bars downtown that includes the Broadway Bar, Golden Gopher, and Seven Grand, recently brought Cole's into that fold, transforming the century-old cafeteria from 'old' to 'retro' in a truly charming way. And in the back of Cole's, he built the Varnish, a 1920s speakeasy hidden in modern-day downtown.

Though few spots can really be secret these days in Los Angeles, you really do feel like you're in on something with the Varnish. The small windowless space is decorated with old traincar booths and dim lighting (the vibe matches that of the Edison, though much more intimate), and you could swear the music wafting through is coming from a shaky grammophone (more likely an iPod, but let's not talk about it). It's the kind of place that makes you second-guess wearing jeans to go out -- stockings with a seam running up the back of each leg might be more appropriate. And pincurls.

But while the vibe is quite impressive, what goes on at the bar is the thing here. There is fresh produce on ice in a glass case. There are beautiful bottles holding exotic spirits. There are laboratory flasks filled with liquids of all colors. The night when I visited, Marcos was our able bartender. All of us took him up on the 'bartender's choice', and he did not disappoint. We stood rapt as he meticulously concocted a whiskey drink with honey and lemon juice; a Pimm's cup with lots of cucumber and fresh mint; El Diablo, a zingy tequila drink with homemade ginger syrup, seltzer, and a float of scarlet framboise, and the night's winner, something amazing with ginger syrup and lots of fresh mint (muddled really well so the drink had a gorgeous pale green hue), and garnished with a chunk of candied ginger skewered on two toothpicks. Watching this Marcos at work is quite a treat. He mixes each cocktail with focus and perfectionism, then after giving it the most vigorous shaking I've ever seen, he pours it into its glass over a single giant block of ice (preferred over smaller ice cubes because they melt more slowly, preventing the dilution of these precious drinks), then garnishes beautifully and adds the signature metal straw.

Guys, this place is so special. You have to go. I'd recommend a weeknight, as it can get crowded on weekends. In order to avoid a line through the middle of Cole's, though, on busy nights they take your cell phone number and contact you when you've been let in -- civilized, no? So, get there. But please, don't tell anyone about it, ok?

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The Varnish is at 118 E. Sixth St., at Main, Downtown.

March 20, 2009

The Changing Face of Fairfax Falafel

Filed under: dining out, fairfax, israeli, los angeles — The Delicious Cooking @ 12:48 am

Eat-A-Pita has been shut down for a while now, but earlier this month, they tore down the entire structure. I had been holding out the unlikely hope that someone else would take over that space and keep the cool outdoor patio intact. I always enjoyed lounging out there, cheesy Arabic pop wafting in the background, chowing down gut-bomb falafel. But it's gone, and I'm a little sad (despite the sweet grafitti on the wall behind the lot). According to Dave, who lives on Genessee and is deeply embedded in the Fairfax Village community, condos are coming in. But what does he know?


Meanwhile, a little further up Fairfax, we now have Pita Bar and Grill, in the space that used to be Shula and Esther's. I never went to Shula and E's, though I hear they did decent malawach and cholent, but maybe there's just not as much demand for gritty/ma-and-pa/characterless kosher spots on Fairfax anymore? The new place has some serious professionally scripted signage, and seems to always be closed when I stop by, so all I could get was a picture through the bars. Anyone been here? Is it any good?

March 19, 2009

Cook’s Library Closing April 30

Filed under: books, los angeles, west third street — The Delicious Cooking @ 12:14 pm

I just read in one of the LA Times blogs that the Cook's Library, a cozy little cookbook shop on West Third that I've walked over to on many a Saturday morning, is closing on April 30. I've always felt lucky, and a little awe-struck, that this shop, and the Traveler's Bookshelf next door, managed to stay in business year after year -- these small specialized independent bookstores seem like an anachronism on a stretch flanked by Borders on one end and Barnes and Noble on the other (not to mention Amazon.com looming everywhere). According to the article, Cook's Library has been in business 20 years. So sad to see it leaving the neighborhood.

Expect markdowns on the store's entire stock starting next week.

[thanks erinsikorskystewart for the photo]

March 6, 2009

LA Walkabout

Filed under: los angeles, meta — The Delicious Cooking @ 2:00 pm

So many things I love in one place: Good Magazine, city walking, my beloved Los Angeles, and enviable photography. Check it out. (Also, bread guy in that one picture, I kind of want to marry you.)

PS The burger last night did not disappoint and the photos of it are making my camera's mouth water as we speak.

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